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Post by Pangolinmoth on Jul 28, 2009 19:07:37 GMT
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Post by Dan on Jul 28, 2009 19:15:53 GMT
Awesome. He looks like the younger cousin of the Papo Trike in the first few shots, but in the last ones I can see the color. Very nice work, I like the visible texturing. I imagine the eyes would be the hardest part, were they?
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Post by Pangolinmoth on Jul 28, 2009 19:24:59 GMT
Yea, the eyes are hard. I still have alot of practice to do in the finer details. And I'm just using a cheapo testor starter kit so I don't have a full spectrum of paint and brushes.
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Post by tetonbabydoll on Jul 28, 2009 20:39:34 GMT
You're using enamels??? Do they dry? Out here, enamel will stay tacky on the toys, for years...I have to use acrylics to get around that
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Post by Pangolinmoth on Jul 28, 2009 20:51:41 GMT
Dunno, just bought what they had at the store across the street from my house. Stays tacky for a couple days but it's ok now. Too shiny even though I bought the "flat" set. Acrylic is the way to go huh?
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Post by tetonbabydoll on Jul 28, 2009 21:24:14 GMT
I have had a lot of problems in the past with enamel drying. I thought I would be savy, and spray painted my Papo trike a few years back. Never dried, even after spraying dullcoat, and putting on acryl. To this day, still tacky, and washing it didn't take off the white. I scrubbed with thinner and wire brushes, but it was stubborn. I think enamel reacts badly to the pvs, or perhaps whatever paint is used?
I go to Michaels, or Wal-Mart, and get the 50 cent to 1 dollar craft paint.......
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Post by Pangolinmoth on Jul 28, 2009 21:30:47 GMT
I have had a lot of problems in the past with enamel drying. I thought I would be savy, and spray painted my Papo trike a few years back. Never dried, even after spraying dullcoat, and putting on acryl. To this day, still tacky, and washing it didn't take off the white. I scrubbed with thinner and wire brushes, but it was stubborn. I think enamel reacts badly to the pvs, or perhaps whatever paint is used? I go to Michaels, or Wal-Mart, and get the 50 cent to 1 dollar craft paint....... Must be that Arizona heat. Although it is like 100 degrees here now. And as I hold it there still is a good amount of tacky. |
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Post by Ajax on Jul 29, 2009 0:27:04 GMT
Looks Great, the horns look very real.
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Post by Pangolinmoth on Jul 29, 2009 0:34:27 GMT
^^ Thanks man!
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Post by tetonbabydoll on Jul 29, 2009 1:44:04 GMT
As for eyes, here's what i do
I use a new toothpick and put in the eye color--usually yellow, sometimes red for predators. I let that mostly dry. Now, with another new, sharpish tothpick, I scrape around the eye carefully, to kinda take off any yellow that spills outside the eye. Then, I use whatever color the area around the eye is to bring back the color to the eye's edge, again with a toothpick. Then with a --you guessed it--new point, I dip just the tip into black, and just touch the tip to the center of the eye for the pupil.
One thing about the acryls, I shake the bottle up, open the cap, and pour just a little bit into the cap, and use that for painting. i also use old medicine bottles to custom mix colors in....
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Post by Pangolinmoth on Jul 29, 2009 4:17:06 GMT
Good advice, Thank You. My next project is the WS Stego or one of the WS Rex figs. Gotta start on cheapos before going to the "next level".
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Post by Ajax on Jul 29, 2009 5:07:02 GMT
Good advice, Thank You. My next project is the WS Stego or one of the WS Rex figs. Gotta start on cheapos before going to the "next level". The Wild Safari Carcharodontosaurus is in desperate need for re-painting, Im in the process of painting mine now but i keep messing it up and having to wash the paint off to start again. It has some nice skin details and a pretty decent face. |
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Post by Pangolinmoth on Jul 29, 2009 5:22:59 GMT
Good advice, Thank You. My next project is the WS Stego or one of the WS Rex figs. Gotta start on cheapos before going to the "next level". The Wild Safari Carcharodontosaurus is in desperate need for re-painting, Im in the process of painting mine now but i keep messing it up and having to wash the paint off to start again. It has some nice skin details and a pretty decent face. Pretty much all the old ones do, yea? Good starter stuff. |
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Post by tetonbabydoll on Jul 29, 2009 9:00:05 GMT
The new WS stego is pretty nice. And small. Hard to do the head, trust me.
I do like the coloring you achieved with this one, no one distinct color. Looks almost irridescent. I also love the difference between in the sun, and shaded. Freaky, isn't it? I bet indoor viewing is all different too. I can't think of any other tips at the moment. You seem to have a pretty good grasp on the basics....now go forth and create.....
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Post by sid on Jul 29, 2009 15:11:22 GMT
Great (even if i prefer the original paint scheme)!
It's one hell of a difficult figure to repaint, isn't it?
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Post by Pangolinmoth on Jul 29, 2009 16:31:52 GMT
Thanks guys!
Teton, is there a thread about doing a "wash"? Pretty unclear about that technique and even if I don't try it I would like to understand the concept. Also, do you prime it a specific color or just stick to white or black everytime? I think I like the Black base more than say a white or brown base, Makes those wrinkles and scales look so much deeper.
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Post by tetonbabydoll on Jul 29, 2009 19:14:29 GMT
Washes are messy for me, but there are those more skilled at it who are much more precise. A was is a layer of thinned down paint brushed over the figure. It gets into every groove. You can then go back, and wipe off the excess, and repeat as you feel necessary. It can be any color, layers of colored waashed can add depth. It is especially useful when modelling military hardware, or stuff that needs to be weathered. Black and rust washes, with drybrushing back in the details can add amazing effects.
Now, if you paint the figures straight black, and just drybrush the main color in, you can approximate the look of a dark wash.
I have painted base coats on some figures, and then brushed on a heave black wash and let it dry . Then I paint over that. It gives a more uneven look to the paint. You can also dapple in other colors with a sponge, or stiff brush. All sorts of stiuff. I don't experiment so much because acryl is water soluble, so too much messing around takes all the paint back off. You have to seal each layer before doing the next. On my military and Star Wars models...the styrene stuff, I used enamel, and then acryl washes, so there was no problem.
Before I start each piece, I paint it a base coat. Just to cover up what is already there. Usually a light grey. or a color called camel, a greyed uout yellow color. Or, a color called mudstone. They are light enough for the cream underbelly colors to cover.
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Post by Pangolinmoth on Jul 29, 2009 19:20:18 GMT
Cool, good advice. Thanks. I did a black primer coat and then drybrushed three colors on top of it. I'm gonna need more colors....
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Post by tetonbabydoll on Jul 29, 2009 19:41:50 GMT
I am averaging around 16 separate colors used on each fig...
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