KRENTZ ANTIDELLUVIAN APATOSAURUS

[kevin]

Teton bows down and worships the amazing sculpt...the nicest apato I have, I think, despite the relatively small size:

[Griffin]

Aw no. You make mine look like utter crap. Thanks man.

[kevin]

I d what I can..... ;D I did them this morning. Said to myself...'Self"..."that Griffin f**ker, he needs to be taken down a notch or two...let's just do this...."

"Course, my eyes popped outta my head trying to do these, and I'm blind now, but it was worth it...to get him....

I love these two, and I am eyeing the rex, though I could never hope to equal Tomhet's take on that. Look at it this way Griffin. These two have quite a bit more room to work with than those itty little ceratopsians....

[Griffin]

Yeah but still. Do you use a black primer and then drybrush with all purpose acrilic?

[bokisaurus]

Cool! This is about the only one I will put a priority on if I get around to saving up the $$ for Krents figures. Nice

[kevin]

I painted two coats of a base color. The figs are white resin, as you know. I use acrylic paint, cheap stuff from Michaels, like those Apple barrel paints.

So, I choose a tannish color. This case it was "camel". I paint one thin coat, with an old brush, scrubbing the paint into all the corners, but not too worried about even coverage. Let that dry, for an hour or so. Arizona is real dry, so the paint dries almost as soon as I put it on. Then, I use a newer-ish brush and apply a second coat. Still thin, but with more attention to getting an even coat. let it dry. Then I use black acrylic diluted with water, and "wash" the whole model. In this case, I wanted a fairly dark wash, esentially almost black, so I used less water, and applied three or four coats with drying time in between. I had tried just painting the figures straight black, and painting onto that, but it just doesn't look the same for some reason. I purposely let some of thewash be uneven in it's coveing of the base coat, so there will be some mottling effect under the main paint.

Next, I dry brushed in another layer of camel over the whole piece, this involves taking a brush, dipping it into the paint only partially--do not overload the brush--I then scrub most of the paint off onto a scrap piece of paper. Then take that brush and brush color onto the model. It should be almost dry. On bigger pieces, you can almost scrub it in with the brush. You can only do little areas at a time this way, so it is not a fast technique. The principal is that the paint will only be picked up by the raised detail, and the grooves will remain the color of the underlying wash.

Next, I drybrushed ina med brown clor, and a sandy belly color. I used a color called "old parchment" to do the spikes. For the osteoderms and bumps, I mixed a grey-ish brown color called "mushroom" with black and used that. On the smaller bumps, I resorted to a toothpick. I used bleached sand for the eyes, applied with toothpick, and black for the pupils and nostrils. Old parchment again for the toe claws. Then, same process for the base and eggs, and superglue it down. The final step will be to spray it with a flat clearcoat, to seal and protect the paint. I got the figs thurs at midnight. I did the base coats and washes yesterday--about two hours of work. I painted both figs today, about three hurs for both. ;D

[[][][]cordylus[][][]]

I'd totally buy these figures if, you know, they weren't so small and so rediculously expensive...

Nice paint though, looks kind of like a raul martin painting

[Griffin]

Dec 26, 2009 22:52:54 GMT @kevin said:

I painted two coats of a base color. The figs are white resin, as you know. I use acrylic paint, cheap stuff from Michaels, like those Apple barrel paints.

So, I choose a tannish color. This case it was "camel". I paint one thin coat, with an old brush, scrubbing the paint into all the corners, but not too worried about even coverage. Let that dry, for an hour or so. Arizona is real dry, so the paint dries almost as soon as I put it on. Then, I use a newer-ish brush and apply a second coat. Still thin, but with more attention to getting an even coat. let it dry. Then I use black acrylic diluted with water, and "wash" the whole model. In this case, I wanted a fairly dark wash, esentially almost black, so I used less water, and applied three or four coats with drying time in between. I had tried just painting the figures straight black, and painting onto that, but it just doesn't look the same for some reason. I purposely let some of thewash be uneven in it's coveing of the base coat, so there will be some mottling effect under the main paint.

Next, I dry brushed in another layer of camel over the whole piece, this involves taking a brush, dipping it into the paint only partially--do not overload the brush--I then scrub most of the paint off onto a scrap piece of paper. Then take that brush and brush color onto the model. It should be almost dry. On bigger pieces, you can almost scrub it in with the brush. You can only do little areas at a time this way, so it is not a fast technique. The principal is that the paint will only be picked up by the raised detail, and the grooves will remain the color of the underlying wash.

Next, I drybrushed ina med brown clor, and a sandy belly color. I used a color called "old parchment" to do the spikes. For the osteoderms and bumps, I mixed a grey-ish brown color called "mushroom" with black and used that. On the smaller bumps, I resorted to a toothpick. I used bleached sand for the eyes, applied with toothpick, and black for the pupils and nostrils. Old parchment again for the toe claws. Then, same process for the base and eggs, and superglue it down. The final step will be to spray it with a flat clearcoat, to seal and protect the paint. I got the figs thurs at midnight. I did the base coats and washes yesterday--about two hours of work. I painted both figs today, about three hurs for both. ;D

Ok so maybe ill try that for my cory and rex. Depending on how nicely those come out I'll redo the ceratopsians. Whats the best way to get paint off to redo a figure?

[kevin]

Hey, Griff, see my rather lengthy pm on this, and my opinion here. I just am not sure you really need to strip down your work. You and many others were quite pleased with them the day before last. If you really, really want to undo them, fine. You will have to use thinner to strip the enamel, then wash them to clean off the thinner. The paint still may not all come off depending. I don't want to see you ruin all of your own hard work, just becaause some of mine just are done differently than yours. Anyway, I addressed this in greater length via pm

[Meso-Cenozoic]

Really nice work, Kevin! It reminds me a little of the WwD Dippies, with the spike on the back down to the ringed tail.

At first glance, it looks as if it's just light and dark shadings of a single color. But, when looking at the close-ups, you can really see all the different subtle color shadings. Nice work again, bud! ;D

Oh BTW, I've never seen any Krentz model in person. Everyone seems to comment on their smaller size. About how big is this guy?

[kevin]

Without straightening the tail, it measures about 9 1/2 inches long, and 3 inches high including the base. So, just a bit smaller than the Kinto soft apato, wich is odd, since this is 1/72. and that is 1/80, the Kinto should be smaller...

Interestingly enough though, the Kabaya seismosaurus looks about right next to this. An interesting pic. Perhaps tmorrow, after Susan and I get back from her doc. I'll take one next to Hans, and the Kabaya. The smaller species are a shade largr than Kaiyodo. Kuni and I figure the colerata stego is about in scale. When I get the Krentz stego, we'll see.

The jobaria is 6 and 3/4 inches long, by 3 and 3/4 high including the base. The coryntho is 4 1/4 inches long by 1 3/4 inches high, including the base. Quite small, but tremendously detailed. The sauropods are sinfully detailed, the coryntho not quite as much. Tomhet says the rex is about 6 inches long, and also "obscenely" detailed. The rex is based on the "Sue" mount. So, yea, detailed, but small, and pretty expensive given their size. But I may well be hooked, especially since they are still in production, if you can be patient. When I ordered these, he was out and had to get more in, and it was around two months or so to get them. Although, the day after I ordered, he did e-mail me, explained the situation, and asked me if it was ok for me to wait. That was nice, having the option. ANd anytime I wrote asking where we were in the process, he always responded quickly and professionally. The same cannot be said of some of the larger retailers I have dealt with on-line.

[kevin]

Here are those size comparison shots: the Krentz figures with the Kinto soft apato, and kabaya seismo, all with hans:

[razh00]

i really love these figures!!!!!!

¿which ones are the two sauropods apart from jobaria and apatosaurus? ¿are they KRENTZ`s?

[Griffin]

No Krentz only has those two sauropods out right now.

[DinoLord]

Those other two sauropods are the Kabaya Seismosaurus and Kinto Favorite Apatosaurus, which are not made by Krentz.