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Post by razh00 on Mar 12, 2011 9:24:34 GMT
 Hey, you got it really fast! And it's biiig (o.k. not really ;D). I love this new mini series so much and I also hope it won't stop too soon. me too ¿is this guy really at 144 scale? |
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Post by brontodocus on Mar 12, 2011 9:26:19 GMT
Very nice, Radman. It goes really well with his Antediluvia sauropods. Shouldn't be too difficult to paint and no seams to remove... Mine is already "in production" since yesterday. |
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Post by brontodocus on Mar 12, 2011 9:41:03 GMT
¿is this guy really at 144 scale? I bet it's more like 1:100 - this also applies to the others of the series, e.g. the Triceratops has a 24.5 mm long head including the frill, the Tyrannosaurus is 111 mm long along the position where the vertebrae would be, etc. Newer remains indicate Alamosaurus reaching as much as 24 m svpow.wordpress.com/2009/09/02/how-big-was-alamosaurus/but when the model is 175 mm long it only means 175 mm along x-axis and may actually be well over 200 mm. |
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Post by Radman on Mar 12, 2011 14:10:48 GMT
¿is this guy really at 144 scale? I bet it's more like 1:100 - this also applies to the others of the series, e.g. the Triceratops has a 24.5 mm long head including the frill, the Tyrannosaurus is 111 mm long along the position where the vertebrae would be, etc. Newer remains indicate Alamosaurus reaching as much as 24 m svpow.wordpress.com/2009/09/02/how-big-was-alamosaurus/but when the model is 175 mm long it only means 175 mm along x-axis and may actually be well over 200 mm. Measured along the spine it's approximately 210-215 mm long, so a scale of 1:100 seems about right. Here's a shot in morning sun showing some of the details:  It will go well with some of the smaller Tyrannosaurus models...  |
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Post by krentz on Mar 13, 2011 6:53:37 GMT
Hey Guys..
Glad you like Alamo.
As for the sizes...exporting an stl file to match real life is not an exact science. I do everything possible to make it accurate, but often it does not work out. Even when I hold a ruler to the screen and measure skulls etc the exporter measure the overall piece, and I try and work out the spine length too.
I talked to two people working on the new Alamo material and had estimates between 80 and 100 feet. I chose 90.
I sculpted the trike a while ago, around the time of the Torosaurus-is-Triceratops debate. I thought I should add a little length to the frill just in case everyone ( hahahahaha) agreed on this. WOrst case scenario is that I have a Trike with an elongated frill for variation.
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Post by Trexroarr on Mar 14, 2011 3:15:32 GMT
These are seriously fantastic! The amount of detail in such small figures, is ridiculous!!  I really hope they're going to be available for some time, since I'm currently broke...  Also a couple of questions... What's the best material to get them in which is the most durable, while at the same time shows the most detail? And is it possible to get these painted in the first place? I suck at custom painting... Haha. |
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Post by DinoLord on Mar 15, 2011 1:34:44 GMT
I imagine that the best material would be the white one, depending on how you want to paint the models. From what I've heard, the transparent material isn't that great. And if you want to give a figure made out of the black material a light color scheme, it will be quite difficult. As for custom painting, practice on some cheaper figures first or comission someone to do it for you.
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Post by brontodocus on Mar 15, 2011 10:39:23 GMT
The material's durability is determined more by the material and less by the colour used. There is "White, Strong & Flexible" which is the cheapest and consists of sintered nylon powder. Due to its (albeit limted) flexibility this is the toughest material but it also comes in other colours which are as durable. Then there is "Black Detail", "White Detail", "Transparent Detail" with a smoother surface but these are more brittle. If you intend to paint the figures you should bear in mind that the "Strong & Flexible" versions have a porous surface and would require a coating prior to painting fine details with thin colour which could otherwise blur due to capillary force. I guess this is especially important here since I expect painting of all figures except the Alamosaurus to be tough anyway due to their really small size. EDIT: Aaaaaah! I have a UPS shipping notification! The Alamosaurus will probably be here today! |
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Post by Trexroarr on Mar 15, 2011 21:57:30 GMT
Thanks for the answers, guys! ;D
Well since I won't be painting these (most likely), and only displaying them as is, I should get them in either White Detail or Black Detail, correct?
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Post by brontodocus on Mar 15, 2011 22:30:41 GMT
It depends. The Strong & Flexible are not bad regarding details, just less smooth. I received the Alamosaurus today (White Strong & Flexible) and I'd be worried about the long, slender tail that might break easily if the model had been of a more brittle material. I have the Triceratops in White Detail and the tip of the tail was broken when it arrived but I could glue it back on and the damage is not really visible anymore. I know it's not easy to decide. Maybe you should look at postsaurischian's photos, I think all his David Krentz Shapeways figures are White, Strong & Flexible. If you like how the details come out in that material, you should maybe get your models like that.
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Post by Trexroarr on Mar 15, 2011 23:06:21 GMT
I think I'd rather a little less detail and have them be more durable, than the other way around. Not to mention that "White, Strong & Flexible" is cheaper.
Yeah, I'll take a look at his pictures. Do you have a picture of your Triceratops, so that I can compare the two?
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Post by brontodocus on Mar 16, 2011 0:16:12 GMT
Of course:  While the surface is smoother in general you can see these horizontal lines that indicate that the figure was produced in layers. These lines are more obscured in White, Strong & Flexible but that isn't necessarily a disadvantage. |
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Post by Trexroarr on Mar 16, 2011 2:44:34 GMT
Ah. I think I'm going to go with "White, Strong & Flexible", since it's cheaper, stronger, and I'm not too crazy about those lines in the Trike. Thanks for your help! |
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Post by krentz on Mar 17, 2011 23:58:07 GMT
Personally, from someone who sculpted all the details and knows what to look for, the detail materials are best. I've been having touble with the detail black material though, it's either perfect or there are some strange artifacts. I would say get white detail, clean them up if there is any gel or softspots to rub off, then lightly dust them with a flat grey paint. Grey allows you to see the highest amount of detail. Thats what I'd do...
IF YOU SEE ANY PRINTING FLAWS PLEASE LET SHAPEWAYS KNOW!!!
Also, request that they have a Grey Detail material. That would be sweet.
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Post by darko2300 on Mar 22, 2011 17:46:38 GMT
I just received my Alamosaurus in "black detail" yesterday. Unfortunately, the tail had broken in 2 places. Kind of irritating really - after paying that much - but I guess its my fault for ordering it in that material. If I decide to give it another go in the future, I'll definitely be using the strong and flexible material.
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Post by sbell on Mar 22, 2011 18:05:53 GMT
I just received my Alamosaurus in "black detail" yesterday. Unfortunately, the tail had broken in 2 places. Kind of irritating really - after paying that much - but I guess its my fault for ordering it in that material. If I decide to give it another go in the future, I'll definitely be using the strong and flexible material. I have been wondering about that--given the cool new fish and amphibians, I wanted to know which material would be best. Strong and flexi it will be! |
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Post by brontodocus on Mar 22, 2011 21:09:00 GMT
Sorry to read your Alamosaurus had a broken tail, darko2300.  The slender tail looks great on the model but I was worried about the detail material probably being too brittle. I don't know if shapeways will offer a refund or replacement in this case but you should try it. |
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bartv
New Member
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Post by bartv on Mar 28, 2011 9:25:19 GMT
Hi all,
I just stumbled across this forum post. You guys have some really cool models here, I'd love to cover it on our blog at Shapeways.com. Would anyone be interested in providing us with some background?
About broken parts: if any model arrives broken, be sure to contact our support team at service@shapeways.com - they'll help you out.
If there's anything else I can help you with please ask! You can contact me directly at bart@shapeways.com. (I'm not sure if this forum mails our notifications ,I might miss replies if it doesn't).
Cheers,
Bart Veldhuizen
Community Manager Europe, Shapeways
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Post by postsaurischian on Mar 28, 2011 10:34:28 GMT
Hello Mr. Veldhuizen, It's very nice to have you on board here . Thanks for the information. What eyactly do you mean by "providing us with some background"? Do you want pics or scientific information or .....? I'm sure some of us would be happy to do so . BTW: We have a 'Classifieds' category where you could open a Shapeways thread and announce all Dinosaur and prehistoric themes related models news : dinotoyforum.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=classifieds |
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Post by Seijun on Mar 28, 2011 17:32:28 GMT
Question:
Although non of David's figures come in "hollow", some of Angie's do. Does being hollow have any affect on the outer look of the piece?
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Hey, you got it really fast! And it's biiig (o.k. not really ;D).
The slender tail looks great on the model but I was worried about the detail material probably being too brittle. I don't know if shapeways will offer a refund or replacement in this case but you should try it.
